Scientists and educators involved with the ANDRILL Program will meet each morning during the drilling season to talk about the progress and results of the project.  Co-Chief Scientists Tim Naish (New Zealand) and Ross Powell (U.S) are responsible for leading these meetings.  We started our day today with such a meeting.  It was important to get the background information on the drilling system, in order to understand the logistics behind the drill rig and what the scientists and drillers hope to accomplish this season.  Remember that for more information, you can refer to the ANDRILL website and go to:  http://www.andrill.org/science/rig/index.html

(or from the home page of www.andrill.org click on “Science and Technology” and then “Technology Behind the Drill Rig”)

Approaching the ANDRILL drill site

The ANDRILL drill rig

            Lots of progress has been made so far.  The drillers used the hot water drill system to melt their way through the McMurdo Ice Shelf, which in this location was 85 meters thick.  This was done by making a progressively larger and larger hole in the ice shelf.  At this moment there is a 600 mm (millimeter) hole that’s been opened up.  The diameter is close to the width of a school desk.

 

     The ocean floor lies about 940 meters below where the drill rig sits.  At this point, the drillers are deploying (installing) what’s called the sea riser, which is a pipe they hang from the drilling platform to the sea floor.  A sea riser has not been deployed to the sea floor from an ice shelf before, so this is exciting new technology to follow.  The team has to be extremely careful as they hang this pipe with a winch.  They clamp it off and add new sections as the drill rig takes the weight.  By the time this is lowered to the sea floor, they estimate that the weight will be 20+ tons.

     The team will need to get a feel for the tidal movements to track the effect of ocean currents on the sea riser.  Also, they must be sure that the sea riser stays away from the sides of the hole in the ice shelf, so they pump hot water through a reaming tool that surrounds the sea riser to keep it free from the ice.  I found it interesting to learn that sea level is 20 meters below the surface of the ice shelf.

   

This is the hot water reaming tool.                                 

     Once the sea riser is in place, drillers use what’s called a P core barrel (P refers to the size of the barrel) which is a tube ahead of the sea riser.  A push-coring tool inside the P core barrel takes the first core sediment samples.  The push-coring tool is taken out and a new tool is inserted--a hydraulic piston corer (HPC).  The HPC will force a core barrel into the sediments to take up to three samples--each about 3 meters in length.  Eventually the sea riser is cemented into the sea floor at an approximate depth of 2-5 meters below the sea floor, and the rotary drilling takes place. 

      Each day scientists and drillers will retrieve cores from the drill rig and process them at the lab site at the drill rig.  Those cores will be transported from the drill site to Crary Lab, where the ANDRILL geoscientists will examine them.  I’ll be sharing much more on what individual science teams do….stay tuned!

 

(Photos by Ross Powell)

 

           

 

           

            At our daily meeting Ross and Tim gave us the latest news from the drill site….things are going well and the sea riser is within 4 meters from the sea floor.  At the moment the hot water reaming tool is attached to the guide wires and is reaming the outside of the hole to be sure it is clear.  The sea riser is hanging and getting used to the tides.  Everyone’s excited about the progress, and I can’t wait until the first core is brought into Crary Lab.

 

            After this briefing many of the ANDRILL team members had to stay around for the “Outdoor Safety Lecture” being held at Crary.  This meeting is required if you are planning on leaving McMurdo for a recreational activity.  This includes some of the more local hiking routes such as Castle Rock or Cape Armitage…both places I’d like to explore when I have some free time.  Basically a new electronic system called “E-foot Plan” has streamlined the process of checking out in McMurdo.  People fill out the online forms that will notify the Fire House that they’re headed out of town.  They still have to report in to the Fire House, and they have the final say on weather and conditions.  Also important…checking back in with the Fire House once you have arrived back in town, to avoid the launch of a search and rescue operation. 

 

            Our speaker gave us lots of information on the prevention and recognition of cold weather injuries.  All of these facts would directly apply to the ANDRILL team at the drill site.  The following is a list of critical points to remember:

 

**what are the ways we lose heat                

**what are some ways to preserve heat

**wearing layers of clothing                          

**drinking lots of water

**food                                                                     

**exercise

 

            Our instruction went over the various stages of hypothermia, giving us information on what to do if we notice a partner showing signs of this condition. 

 

            Also important…stay on the flagged paths that have been checked out and established for recreation and public use.  Black flags on bamboo poles mean danger.  Red and green flags mean it is safe to proceed.  ANDRILL scientists and drillers know these rules as well…because they will be using various modes of transportation to go to and from the drill site.

            Ross and Tim were part of our ARISE meeting this afternoon.  This was very helpful because they were able to answer our questions about the drill rig, sea riser, and the initial phase of the drilling process. 

 

One of the big questions a couple people asked about was how much concrete will be poured into the sea riser to cement it into the sea floor in order for the rotary drill to begin working.  There is actually a huge technology in cements, and the type they use for this sort of project cures (hardens) in sea water.  They will pour the concrete down the sea riser and the cement oozes out of the bottom.  Once it hardens, they drill through the cement and back into the sea floor. 

 

The team at the drill site expects that about 30 meters of core will be brought up each day once the rotary drill bit is working.  The goal of the ANDRILL McMurdo Ice Shelf (MIS) Project is to recover over a kilometer of sediment cores from the Ross Sea floor.  Once the drilling is completed for the season, the team sends explosives down the sea riser and they blow it to disconnect it from the sea floor.  The sea riser is removed to the surface.  I wonder how many of those parts can be re-used for future drilling projects?

 

                             

These are pipes that will go inside of the sea riser to collect soft sediments.

          Today was a very quiet day around the lab…but that’s okay because I still needed time to catch up on my journals and meet with my science discipline team.  Sunday is generally a quite day around McMurdo Station and it’s also the day that a wonderful Sunday brunch is served.  What a great treat that was today!

            For my first science research assignment, I’ll be working with the micropaleontology team.  Next week I’ll do a feature article on the team and their role in the overall ANDRILL picture.  Today we had a brief meeting to work out lab space, equipment, and just get to know each other as a group.   

            I’ve got a question for you… What does a micropaleontologist study?   If you know, write me a message through the ANDRILL blog and let’s see how many people come up with the correct answer. 

            One of my errands from yesterday was to pick up three packages at the post office.  I had mailed myself some snacks and other items that I didn’t want to take in my luggage.  Visiting the McMurdo post office was very interesting.  You wouldn’t believe the volume of mail that travels through that post office.  Here are some incredible statistics given to me by Kathy, the Postmaster:

                        Kathy is the McMurdo Postmaster.

 

** on Thursday alone there was 16,000 pounds of mail…that’s three full cargo pallets of about 3,700 to 4,200 pounds each!

** from August 2004 through February 2005 there was 108,954 pounds of mail sent to McMurdo…that’s including packages and flat (letter) mail 

** the amount of mail dispatched (leaving McMurdo) totaled 88,351 pounds

** the post office here sold $5,597.72 of stamps 

** there was $63,140.90 of money orders sold through the post office

** the labels printed to mail packages (called PVI’s) totaled $61,009.01 of postage 

** total cash sales:  $129,747.63 – isn’t that amazing?!

            Kathy asked me if I wanted to cancel the stamps for the postcards I was sending to my students back home.  This was appropriate because I’m the person in charge of our Husmann Elementary School “Wee Deliver” postal system.  For all the kids back home…today I was a “Nixie Clerk.” 

 

 

 

                           Carol works with packages and flat mail.

                Today I met one of the scientists on the ANDRILL team, Chieh Peng.  She gave me an introduction to porewater geochemistry.  I’ll be working with this team later in the ANDRILL project, but since Chieh is only around for another week I was happy to have the chance to work with her.  She is based at Texas A & M University and works for the Integrated Ocean Drilling Program—otherwise known as IODP.  Chieh has been working on porewater geochemistry for many years, and is currently an assistant lab officer for IODP.

 

She’s made 40+ scientific cruises as part of IODP….with each cruise lasting 2 months.  International scientists from many different disciplines propose ocean drilling projects that take place in oceans all over the world.  Teams of 25-30 scientists participate on each cruise.  There are also approximately 20 technicians on each expedition.  Add the drilling and engineering staff, and the workers that run the ship, and there’s a total of about 110 people on board each IODP cruise.  For more information on the Integrated Ocean Drilling Program go to:  www.iodp.tamu.edu

 

     Chieh Peng working in Crary Lab

            Today’s lesson focused on doing what’s called an alkalinity titration.  LuAnn Dahlman, another one of the ARISE participants is currently working with this team, and she had invited me down to be a part of the demonstration and learning process.  We started by learning how to measure the pH of our sample.  By doing this you find out how much hydrogen ion is in the sample. In this case, we practiced by using seawater, but if we were doing this for real…we’d use the water squeezed out from the pores in the sediments.  That’s how it gets the name porewater geochemistry.  The soft sediments are more porous.  Because the first soft sediment samples were taken from the drill rig, this team has already been very busy.

            Before we started the measurement process, we had to rinse off all tools and beakers with distilled water.  This step was repeated every time we tested a new sample or used a tool.  To measure the pH of our sample we had to use something called a pipettor (also called a pipet) which is calibrated to measure out an exact volume (amount) of the fluid… which in this case was our seawater. 

    

 

            LuAnn is shown using the pipettor to measure out the seawater and gently squirt it into the small beaker.  Our next step was to measure the pH by placing a measurement device into the small beaker.  This device spins rapidly and we press a button on the measurement device that records the initial pH of the sample.

    

The next step is titrating alkaline compounds with an acid that you already know the concentration of.  This tells you what chemical compounds are in the sample.  This serves as an initial indication of what biological and chemical reaction is going on in the sediment sample.

     This is very interesting and I know I have a lot to learn!

             In order to go out into the remote field camps or leave McMurdo Station for any length of time, scientists need to have the proper field training.  They must be instructed in safety procedures and learn to use the types of equipment that might save their life, and at the very least protect them from a sudden change in the weather.  It’s important to know what to do if stranded in a remote location.   Even though we won’t leave McMurdo for very long, each person on the ANDRILL project must attend the “Field Safety Training Program” otherwise known as “Happy Camper School.” 

            Happy Camper School is a unique experience…that’s for sure.  It is a two day/one night course that’s held no matter what the conditions might be…simply because we can’t choose the conditions in Antarctica.  We need to know how to handle many different types of difficult situations.  This morning…off we went to the Science Support Building to begin the course. 

            It started inside with a couple of hours of briefings on several topics.  Our instructors, Eric and Matt gave us information on hypothermia, frostbite, trench foot, and snow blindness.  One of the main themes was describing how we lose heat and how we can gain heat.  These are important lessons to keep in mind when out in the field.  The body looses heat through evaporation (sweat), convection (wind chill), respiration (breathing), and conduction (contact and touching something cold).  We can gain heat by adding layers of insulation, eating and drinking to fuel our body, exercising to build heat, and by providing a wind screen –such as an outer shell (jacket) or clothes that block the wind.   

            We learned that the body pulls blood from extremities (like fingers and toes) and sends that blood to warm the core of your body…to protect the vital organs.  Knowing how to gain heat and stay warm is critical, but also knowing the signs of hypothermia is a must.  Hypothermia is a lowering of the body core temperature.  It can be fatal.  Prevention is the key.  People who plan to work and live in extreme environments must be proactive and anticipate getting hot and cold, stay well fed, hydrated and rested, and PLAN AHEAD!  Always use the buddy system and look out for your buddy.  Watch for signs of hypothermia and get help if needed.  For more information on hypothermia, visit:  http://www.mayoclinic.com/health/hypothermia/DS00333 

            Frostbite is another common problem--even a few minutes of exposure to the cold in Antarctica can cause frost nip….the beginning stages of frostbite.  We learned about the stages of frostbite and how to recognize them.  The buddy system is important here as well….maybe a person can’t see that their nose is turning white….a buddy can make the difference.  Being protected (covered) from the cold and wind is so important. Our ECW gear provides layers of clothing to cover every single inch of our body if needed.  Again, prevention is the key. 

            Matt shared the contents of a survival bag…the food included is to support two people for three days.  Other contents of that bag include sleeping pads and bags, a tent, portable shovel and ice pick, and lots of different anchors for holding down the tent.  Hopefully I’ll never have to use one of these bags!

            We left the Science Support building and traveled by Delta to an area past Scott Base (the New Zealand base about 2 miles away) used for snow survival training.  A vehicle called a piston bulley transported all of our bags/gear and we walked quite a while to get to the instructor hut.  It was a very nice day….sunny, about -20 with the wind chill factor…but if you kept moving you certainly stayed warm.  Eric used the snow mobile with a sled hooked on the back to shuttle people back and forth to the hut more quickly.

 

           The delta…                                               

                                            and a piston bulley

                Transport by snow machine….                               

                                            the instructor hut

Learning how to use the camping stoves was the next task, and this was nothing new for me, since I’m a backpacker.  We practiced inside, in the semi-warmth of the instructor hut…before having to perform those same tasks with cold hands outdoors.  Eating lunch was also important because we had to stock up on calories before we headed outside for the next 20 or so hours.  The next time we’d be inside of this hut was tomorrow morning at about 9:00 AM.  Everyone had to pitch in to help organize the sleeping bags, fleece liners, and pads for each duffle bag.  It was an assembly line…and very organized.

 

                                              The camp stove….                

                    and organizing the sleeping equipment

            When we left the shelter of the instructor hut, we had to walk back about a half mile or so (remember, we are in full ECW gear and the bunny boots) to an area referred to as “snow mound city.”  It got its name because of the various mounds and blocks of snow that are built during snow survival training.  Check out what it looked like before we got started—it was a barren landscape…..that’s Mt. Erebus in the background.  It’s a beautiful sight that dominates the landscape.

 

            Our group got to work immediately and here’s a list of what we accomplished in the next 5-6 hours:

**learned how to set up a Scott tent (named after famed Antarctic explorer Robert Falcon Scott) and anchor it down to keep it in place

 

 

Setting up the Scott tent..      

anchoring it…                

and Vanessa sawing blocks

 

**saw snow/ice blocks out of a flat area and use these to build a wall around our camp to block the wind (By the way, I counted the blocks at the end of our task….we had 90 blocks on the bottom of the wall, and the wall was 4-5 layers high all the way around…if we just used 4 blocks high  as an average, what would be the total number of blocks?)

 

         

            I am hauling snow blocks to the wall and helping to build it.

 

**set up five expedition tents for members of our group to sleep in; these had to be anchored down as well

**learned how to build a quinzee snow shelter (see sequence of photos below

            which shows this process)

 

       

        First you pile your bags high…                

then you cover them with snow. 

 

     You pack down the snow…                                      

check for thickness…

 

              

                    tunnel in to find the bags….

and drag them all out!

 

            A finished quinzee….                            

and a look inside—beautiful!

 

**started several stoves to heat water for our instant dinners and hot drinks

**learned how to dig a snow trench to sleep in…and that includes cutting

            additional snow blocks to cover the trench

 

 Tim Paulsen from ANDRILL is shown here digging his trench...and below, he's testing out the size by laying inside of it. 

              

 

**drilling holes for the bamboo flag poles…to mark a safe route to the different parts of our camp in case of a white out

 

            (these two photos were taken by Alexander Siegmund)

 

**establish radio contact with our instructors who LEFT US out there all night!

            We went to bed about 11:00 PM and as I climbed into the quinzee I wondered how or if I would sleep, how cold I’d be, and I thought about my cozy, warm bed at home!  Stay tuned to find out what happened over night! 

Do you think YOU would like to try snow survival training?   

Cheers,

Betty

            The silence inside the quinzee was amazing.  The only sound I could hear was the occasional crunching in the snow of someone making their way to the outhouse.  Snow Mound City was a very quiet place, and inside each structure, whether it was a Scott tent, trench, expedition tent or quinzee, people were in varying stages of sleep or restlessness….and I’d say pretty much everyone was cold. 

I was no exception…I was awake ALL night and freezing cold.  The zipper on my sleeping bag was malfunctioning and every time I moved even a little bit, the zipper would come down—causing an icy blast of cold air to creep into the bag.  I also wrestled with the two foam pads we had been given…they had been rolled up and were a bit frozen, so flattening them out was quite an adventure.  Just getting into the sleeping bag had been “interesting” and I found that the fleece liner was twisted around me, also contributing to my inability to sleep.  I had the hot water in my large bottle and instead of using that for my feet, I slipped it into my shirt to warm the core of my body.  NOTHING seemed to make me comfortable, and I flipped over and over again all night.

            I kept checking my watch…one o’clock, two o’clock, three o’clock, four o’clock, and finally at five o’clock I gave it up and just decided that in order to get warm I needed to get dressed, get outside of the quinzee and move around.  I put on my frozen snow pants, managed to slip on my freezing cold bunny boots and big red parka and I slid out of the doorway into a bright new day.  My Husmann School banner was still hanging outside of our doorway in honor of my class back in Crystal Lake.

            First stop once I left the quinzee…..the outhouse.  What do you think?      

   

 

            I got to work immediately, knowing that all the movement would warm me up.  My feet and hands felt so much better when I was active….taking down the bamboo flags poles I had put up the night before, using the sled to move equipment like shovels and ice picks back to the storage shed, and packing up my sleeping duffle and ECW bag and transporting those to the pick up spot for our 8:30 AM meeting with Eric and Matt.

            Soon everyone was up and helping to break our camp down and pack things up to leave.  Each and every item needed to be stowed away in its proper place….back into the storage shed, into duffles, or back into orange ECW bags.  Matt and Eric arrived promptly at 8:30 AM and we were either shuttled back to the instructor hut or people elected to walk all the way back (this helped in staying warm).  Here’s what I looked like just before the 8:30 pick up time….very dry skin and icy hair and eyelashes.  Holy cow!

 

 

 

            There was a de-briefing session in the instructor hut…where everyone talked a little about their night’s sleep (or no sleep in my case and I certainly wasn’t the only person), and what they did to help themselves or could have done differently.  It was a good learning experience for our group.  I was struggling to stay awake now…in that warm hut, sitting in a chair…finally feeling thawed out.

 

            We had two training exercises left…two scenarios we needed to practice.  Our group was back outside again in no time, practicing some search and rescue procedures for a white-out situation.  This scenario is often referred to as the “bucket head” activity.  I bet you can see why!  Basically we are pretending that a member of our group has gone outdoors to the outhouse during a white-out.  In order to search for that person, our group had to come up with a plan.  We were given one long rope to use for the search and rescue operation, and our instructor gave us three minutes to come up with a plan.  The rope was tied off to the doorway of the building, so we could find our way back.  Everyone had to wear a white bucket on their head to simulate a white-out.

 

Each member of our group spread out a short distance away from one another and made a sweeping circle through the area…hoping to stumble upon the missing person.  Remember, we had white buckets on our heads, so we couldn’t see where we were going.  It turns out that our group split up too much and we were extremely lucky to find the “body” (a duffle bag!) just by chance.  I think we learned a lot about this type of rescue and how we would modify our plan if this was a real search situation.

 

                                 

  (buckethead photos by Cristina Millan)

            The second scenario was set up as follows:  our vehicle had caught on fire and we had to abandon it quickly and save whatever we could.  We had one emergency survival bag and one radio box.  Weather was closing in rapidly, and we had 20 minutes to set up the expedition tent, build a wall around it, set up the radio equipment and establish radio contact to get help.

            Our group worked so well together that we accomplished all of these tasks in the time allowed.  It takes team work to make things happen not only in emergency situations, but in life.  I am thinking of how the large group of scientists involved in the ANDRILL project have to work together to accomplish their goals.  I really like the way the international teams of scientists have come together to make new discoveries, record data, and work for a common goal.  It’s a great model for us all.

            Back at the instructor hut, we all pitched in to clean it up, store the supplies and ready the hut for the next snow survival class in a few days.  Eric and Matt shuttled people to the “bus stop” to wait for the Delta, and soon we were making the 20 minute ride back into McMurdo.  I got a real treat…I got to ride up in the cab of the Delta, which gave me a much better look at the road and Scott Base.  I also looked inside the cab and found some cool information about the Delta. 

**Gross weight= 43,300 pounds

**Height= 141 inches    **Width= 130 inches    **Length= 400 inches long

            Back at the Science Support Center we watched two additional videos on helicopter safety and also life in the Dry Valleys.  I could barely stay awake!  Finally at about 4:00 PM we were dismissed from class.  Vanessa and I stayed around to interview Matt and Eric to find out a little more about them. They are really knowledgeable and friendly guys. 

 

Eric (on the right) is from the state of Washington and this is his second year on the ice.  He teaches courses and leads guided trips in the Cascades Mountains of the Pacific Northwest and also the Alaska Range. He’s worked for the American Alpine Institute and also Alpine Ascents International. 

Matt has lived in Alaska for 15 years.  He is a teacher and guide for Kennicott Wilderness Guides and the Alaska School of Mountaineering. He lives in the heart of  Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, (a huge national park in eastern Alaska) in the small town of McCarthy.  He’s worked in Denali National Park (home of Mt. McKinley—the tallest peak of North America), the Alaska Range, and has taught glacier and ice climbing.  The experience of these two men adds a lot to the both the Search and Rescue operations and the Field Safety Training in McMurdo.  I’d like to thank them for a great experience in Happy Camper School. 

 

   

                        Our snowy home for the night and our mascot…a penguin!

Cheers,

Betty

            During our morning briefing Terry Wilson and Phil Kyle, two of the ANDRILL scientists gave us some background of the geology of the Victoria Land Basin.  The McMurdo Ice Shelf Project of ANDRILL is currently taking place in this area.  I am starting to make sense of the complicated geology of this region, but I met with Terry later on to ask her some questions.  I am just a beginner in geology compared to the scientists working on the ANDRILL project.  Here’s a tiny bit of what I learned.

            This diagram shows the tectonic setting of the Antarctic Plate, which is one of seven major plates on Earth.  Scientists are interested in understanding how much movement there has been and when it occurred.  They look at active volcanism, active glacial movements and deposits, and uplift or faulting of the Earth’s crust.

 

 

            The diagram below shows how the East Antarctic and West Antarctic regions are spreading apart, which is called rifting.  Scientists study the timing and magnitude (amount) of this rifting.  They want to know about the formation of the Transantarctic Mountains and this West Antarctic Rift System.  Earth’s crust is thinner in rift areas and as a result it slides down along the faults (cracks), forming a basin.

 

            The following diagram shows the areas where the basins are located in McMurdo Sound. 

 

            As sediments are eroded off by river systems and glaciers, they are deposited in the basin and gradually the basin fills with these sediments.  Layer after layer accumulates, preserving an archive of geologic history and a climate record through time.  When scientists retrieve the sediment cores from this region, they will analyze these sedimentary records which provide evidence of ice shelf collapse during past times of global warming.  The stratigraphic records help scientists understand Antarctica’s role in the past, present, and future global climate system.

 

            Some of the things ANDRILL scientists hope to learn more about include:

** how the sediments deposited in the Victoria Land Basin were transported and about the volume of sediments deposited

**the timing of glacial events in relation to the erosion of the Transantarctic Mountains

**the timing of rift events and the relation to the uplift of the Transantarctic Mountains

**ages for seismically-defined layers and fault patterns

**sediment thickness, age, and properties

**forces that shaped this area…both paleo (back in geologic history) and modern

 **the geochemical evolution of volcanism

            This is by no means a comprehensive list….there is so much more.  Just wanted to give you a bit of background on this region, and what ANDRILL scientists might be interested in. 

 

           

 

This morning I took some time to sit down with Peter Webb, someone who I have an enormous amount of respect for as a scientist.  Peter was one of the Co-Chief Scientists for the Cape Roberts Project when I worked with that geologic drilling project eight years ago.  He has a long history of geologic research in Antarctica and is currently celebrating 50 years of being involved in geology research on this continent.  He is truly an amazing (and rather humorous) man. 

            I asked Peter how he actually became interested in science and geology, and what inspired him to take this path in life.  His first exposure to geology was through his father’s work as a petroleum engineer for an oil company.  Peter’s father worked more on the drilling/mechanical side of the business.  Occasionally the oil company sent paleontologists from the United States to work in New Zealand.  This was Peter’s initial look at microfossils.  He says that he stored that information away for later in his life.

            During his late elementary years, Peter and his mom ran a dairy farm.  “Farmer Webb” as he calls himself, spent time breeding milk cows and he became convinced that he wanted to become a veterinarian.  Peter would have had to attend a university in Australia to go to vet school and the money just wasn’t there for that, so he went to Victoria University in New Zealand…totally confused about what career he was going to focus on.  He decided to be a teacher.

    

            During his university education Peter randomly chose a geology course as an elective…the connection back to his Dad’s work was re-established and suddenly geology seemed more exciting than teaching.  In addition, at the time it was very difficult to find a teaching position in New Zealand.  Peter made the shift to geology and it was during this time that he first had the opportunity to travel to Antarctica. 

His first experience was on a U.S. ship as a cargo handler during the International Geophysical Year (IGY) in 1957.  This was New Zealand’s first Antarctic expedition, with only thirty people at most being chosen for the trip.  There was a big application process, and of course the selection became very political.  Being 19 year old undergraduate students, Peter and his friend Barrie McKelvey found themselves at the bottom of the list of possible participants.  Peter shared the following story with me:

 

“The head of the geology department at Victoria University conspired to move us up the list of people going on the expedition.  He made a deal that we’d be called cargo handlers.  When we arrived we did the cargo unloading as fast as possible.  When that was over we got into the geology routine.  We had absolutely no precise plans, and we got help from Admiral Dufek (U.S. Admiral in charge of the Williams Air Facility) and Sir Edmund Hillary (who had helped establish Scott Base in 1956).  In those days we were children to all these people…they were greatly amused by two kids organizing an expedition here.  Everyone thought it was rather adventurous to send two undergrads into the Transantarctic Mountains.”

 

Peter and his friend Barrie McKelvey on Ross Island in 1958.  First three photos are courtesy of Peter Webb.

 

 

            The following year Peter returned to Antarctica to continue research that was part of IGY.  He became one of the first people to explore the Dry Valleys and is shown in the photo above in Beacon Valley during the 1957-58 field season.  When Peter and others in his party were dropped off in remote areas, they set up field camps, and back then walked between areas they wanted to study.  Today it’s so much different as helicopters fly in and out of the Dry Valleys providing transport for scientists and their gear/equipment on a regular basis. 

            While he was the New Zealand representative on the steering committee for the Dry Valleys Drilling Project in the early 1970’s, Peter met Antarctic researchers from Northern Illinois University.   Peter was recruited to move to the U.S. to not only become Chair of the Geology Department but help develop their doctoral program.  Peter had worked for the New Zealand government as a researcher for thirteen years and now he found himself back in the role of teacher…facing his first classes of geology students.  He stayed at NIU until 1980, at which time he moved to a position as a teacher/researcher at Ohio State University.  He’s been there ever since.

            He considers himself a broad geologist and remarked that now people in geology are more specialized.  As they specialize they get back to fundamental areas of science like biology, chemistry, etc.  Peter told me that “the geologists of the last 50 years were unique and it was a great time to be a geologist.  My generation of geologists probably had more scientific breadth.”

            When I asked him how it feels to be here 50 years after that first experience in the Dry Valleys during IGY, he remarked that it was more relaxed and unrushed, particularly since he’s not in charge of ANDRILL or any other major project.  He’s also “quite happy to see some of his former students here doing their thing” for ANDRILL.  At least two of the scientists involved with ANDRILL, were students of Peter’s.  Peter says “One of the most satisfying things as teachers is to have some impact on the lives of our students, and have their respect and they still discuss things with you.” 

            It’s important to “re-charge mentally for a few hours or days, etc., otherwise you become boring,” laughs Peter.  He enjoys the theater, music, and he and his wife, Joan, (a 1984 Antarctic field assistant) raise/breed German Shepherds.  One of my favorite comments from Peter from our interview:  “Life’s been a meandering experience.”  He’s certainly left his mark on Antarctic science after 21 trips to the ice, and I feel privileged to have met and worked with him.  He leaves the ice next week, but more importantly, he leaves a legacy of geology research and ALWAYS leaves quite an impression on those people whose lives he touches. 

 

 

           

            (photos by Megan Berg, ANDRILL Media Specialist)

 

 

For a great article about Peter written back in 1999 for the McMurdo newspaper, the Antarctic Sun, go to:    http://antarcticsun.usap.gov/oldissues99-2000/99_1114/profile.html

 

 

 

 

           

 

 

 

 

 

 

           

 

 

 

            Today our discipline team leader for the sedimentologists, Larry Krissek, gave us our first core log update.  He explained what characteristics we could expect to see in the core samples brought into the lab and processed for today’s sampling.  Scientists are using a new method to log the core….a computer program called PSICAT.  I’ve attached an example of what the core log might look like.  Each notation has a very specific meaning and scientists work very carefully to take accurate notes.

 

              After Larry’s introduction everyone headed downstairs to the core lab to actually view the boxes of core. Lionel Carter is the person who takes over from here, giving us the introduction to the sediment cores each day.  Scientists from the various discipline teams are given the opportunity to place small flags into the core boxes, to indicate to the curators exactly where they would like to take a sample.  Sampling requests are filled throughout the rest of the day.  Here’s what it looked like in the lab this morning.

 

 

  

    

            Notice the meter stick provided to show scale, and the blue marker that also shows the 20 cm depth below the sea floor.  These soft sediments are the ones closest to the top of the sea floor.  As the drill proceeds deeper into that sea floor the sediments will be harder.  Also notice the pebbles, (called clasts), that are found in the sediments.  There is a team, led by Italian Franco Talarico, that is devoted to studying these clasts and their properties. 

            

           

Percy Strong (micropaleontology team) is selecting a spot to sample.  Boxes of core are laid out on the tables in order of depth below the sea floor.  It was exciting to see the core boxes for the first time.  As the rotary drilling begins to happen, soon we’ll be very busy in Crary Lab.

Here’s the order of events from the time the drill brings up a section of core, just to give you an idea of how this all happens:

1.  The core is immediately brought into the on-site lab located adjacent to the drill rig; it is cut into one meter lengths, and sediments are roughly described by the lab technicians.

2.  The core is scanned for its geophysical and geochemical properties; this includes the velocity of sound through the sediment, how much natural radioactivity it has, and its density and porosity.

3.  Another team does a solid core scan which means the core is slowly rotated while a photo is taken of the entire 360 degree surface; this provides a flat picture of the core; scientists look at the orientation of the fractures in the core.

4.  The cores are put into boxes and clearly labeled with depth below the sea floor; boxes of core are carefully transported back to Crary Lab in McMurdo.

5.  Cores are split in half; one half becomes an archive and is stored for transport to a core storage facility at Florida State University; the other half is the “working” half and is what we see each day in the lab on the core tour.

6.  Sedimentologists prepare a core report which is presented at our daily meetings.

7.  A core tour is given each day; scientists mark where they want the curators to take samples; curators take these samples and bag them individually to give to each science team.

            8.  Scientists on each team perform their tests and                 collect data.

     

            There was a bit of recreation tonight as McMurdo Station prepared for the annual Halloween dance.  Clever people donned a myriad of costumes…and paraded down to the gym for this event.   People used a lot of recycled items and there are also things to borrow from the recreation office.  It is crazy to think that here at the bottom of the world people are still celebrating Halloween. 

      

 

 

 

 

    

            Today was filled with many different activities.  Megan Berg, the ANDRILL Media Specialist filmed us (the ARISE team of educators) outside, talking about our experiences from Happy Camper School.  Each day Megan works on tons of different projects, and the video journals are just one part of her job.  I hope that you are taking a look at these video journals as they are being added to the ANDRILL Project Iceberg website.  They really do give a close-up look at the ANDRILL Project and what’s involved in traveling to and being in Antarctica.

 

     Matteo Cattadori during his interview

    (photos by Alexander Siegmund)

            I saw my first Weddell seal today!  One lonely seal had come up through a crack in the ice and was lounging on the ice in the sun. 

 

 

           

                    (photos by Davide Persico)

 

            Fast facts on Weddell seals:

 

**scientific name:  Leptonychotes weddelli

 

**southernmost pinniped in the world (a pinniped is

 

**estimated that over 800,000 Weddell seals live in the waters surrounding the continent of Antarctica

 

**males are generally smaller than the females

 

**predators include leopard seals and orca whales

 

**the peak season for females to give birth to pups is from September through November; average gestation period is about 10.25 months

 

**they give birth to one pup at a time; pups are born with a thick layer of fur which is shed in the first month as they develop thick layers of blubber

 

**pups nurse from the mother and the milk is high in fat…up to 60% fat

**pups learn to swim at about 3 weeks old

 

**Weddell seals eat fish, invertebrates, squid and octopuses; they will sometimes eat krill

 

**these seals are incredible divers and can dive to 2,000 feet; they can also hold their breath for more than an hour

 

**adult seals can weigh over 1,000 pounds

 

Information retrieved from:  http://www.antarctica2000.net/wildlife/weddell.html

 

            This afternoon Alexander and I took the shuttle over to Scott Base for a quick visit.  Scott Base is about 2 miles from McMurdo and is a much smaller station.  Approximately 75 people live and work there during the austral (southern hemisphere) summer.  A group of 6-10 individuals lives there during winter-over.  It’s a cozy place with lime green buildings all around the site. 

 

 

 

  

 

 

          Alexander and I visited the small store on base….it was filled with great Antarctic items and we had a little shopping spree!  This was a fun way to spend an hour on a Sunday afternoon at the bottom of the world. 

 

One minute we were inside enjoying the warmth of the Scott Base store, and the next minute we were looking at the cool pressure ridges of ice and snow outside.

 

            When we arrived back in McMurdo, I noticed a group of men practicing for a rugby game.  It’s great to see what people do for recreation here in McMurdo.

 

     Our shuttle to/from Scott Base… 

 

          and rugby players on the streets of McMurdo.

 

            I ended my busy day with an interview during dinner.  I met with Samantha East, a navigator with the 109^th Air Wing, 139^th Airlift Squadron of the New York Air National Guard.  Sam is part of the Active Guard Reservists (AGR) unit that is hired specifically to provide air support to the United States Antarctic Program.  There are 12 crews of the AGR’s and 6 people per crew.  There are also traditional National Guardsmen, but they are part time and have other jobs.  Sam is full time…this is her job.   

            As navigator, Sam has many responsibilities.  She’s the map reader…she tells the pilots how to get where they are going. She programs the navigation computers and also uses celestial navigation as a back-up.  This unit is the only unit in the Air Force that still flies using celestial navigation.  She explained that this can be important when flying in Antarctica, since the landscape is lacking color and can have little in the way of distinguishing features if on-board navigational systems failed.  She uses a sextant, an astronomical instrument that has been around for centuries.  It determines the latitude and longitude at sea by measuring angles and distances, especially the altitudes of the sun, moon, and stars.   

            Sam’s husband, Lloyd, is also in the Air National Guard. He is a pilot of a LC-130, a ski-equipped Hercules.  That is the same type of plane that Sam flies on as navigator.  This plane has four people in the cockpit…a pilot, co-pilot, navigator, and a flight engineer.  There are also 1-2 loadmasters on each flight and can be up to 4 of them.  They are in charge of everything behind the bulkhead of the plane (behind where the cockpit is).

            The LC-130’s that are used in Antarctica for the summer season left the base in Schenectady, New York on October 11^th and they will be here until the season closes out in February.  An AGR’s average deployment to Antarctica is about 9 weeks  during the season. They rotate on and off the ice, but the total amount of time spent here is approximately 9 weeks.  In the off-season Guardsmen in this unit spend time training in Greenland, giving science support to camps, and practicing take-offs, landings, and approaches.  Sam says that all three of these things present different challenges in snowy/icy places like Greenland and Antarctica. 

            LC-130’s are the workhorses of the United States Antarctic Program.  They transport people to the South Pole Station, Siple Dome, and other remote areas around the continent. Each plane can carry 65,000 pounds of fuel and cargo.  For example, when coming to Antarctica from Christchurch, New Zealand, an LC-130 typically carries 10,000 of cargo, since the rest of that weight is dedicated to the fuel the plane must carry to make the trip.

 

                    Sam is the person on the far left in this photo

          Currently many workers headed to the South Pole are stuck here in McMurdo waiting for the temperature to cooperate.  The LC-130’s have a minimum operating temperature of -56 degrees.  The hydraulic fluid and fuel gel at that temperature.  The crews of the LC-130 have backed off the minimum operating temperature to -50 degrees to give a little leeway.  I know there are a lot of scientists and workers who are anxious to get to the Pole, and hopefully that can happen this coming week.  Thanks to Sam for an enjoyable dinner and for taking the time to talk with me.

 

        This is Sam's husband Lloyd...but it's hard to tell!

     In the cockpit of an LC-130 cargo plane                                                         (photos provided by Samantha East)

 

 

 

   

            It was a really busy day for the ARISE educators.  We had the usual 9:30 AM ANDRILL science meeting…Matt Olney, one of the curators gave a presentation on how the samples will be bagged and labeled.  This provides consistency in how every single team receives their samples.  Each label contains information such as the number of the core box, depth below the sea floor, the scientist’s name, the institution (possibly a university or research center) where the scientist works, and the date.  Boxes are set aside for each science team and bags are sorted as the sampling process takes place. 

 

 

           

             Later in the day our entire team met with Peter Webb for a question/answer session.  The focus of the conversation was science education and changes throughout the past 50 years in terms of science research, and inspiring students to become scientists.  Peter asked us as many questions as we asked him, which made for a great exchange of ideas and information.  As a professor at Ohio State, he’s had an influence on many students.  Always interested in learning more, he really valued our own feedback on the students we teach.  It was very inspiring to me as an educator, to sit with the ARISE team and Peter to discuss methods of teaching and the issues we all face—no matter what country we are in. When I have the chance to sit with outstanding educators and share ideas, it is the best professional development I can ask for. 

 

 

    

            After dinner tonight several of my ANDRILL colleagues decided to go for a walk out to the ice runway.  What a great evening for a walk…and the hour-long hike was just what I needed after a day of working indoors.  As long as we bundle up around here, being outside is invigorating and getting some exercise is essential.

The view back toward McMurdo Station

 

 Lionel Carterand Richard Levy with Ob Hill in the background…

                and a LC-130 plane.

 

        The McMurdo Airport...                              

Cargo waiting for transport

    What a great way to end our day! 

Cheers,

Betty

 

           

 

            I’ll start you off today with a beautiful photo by Cliff Atkins.  It was taken out at the ANDRILL drill site the other day.  The ring, called a Solar Halo, is caused by the sun shining on tiny ice crystals hanging in the air.  The two bright spots at the 3:00 and 9:00 positions are called Sun Dogs.  I just love this image.

 

 

            Now, many of you are probably wondering…”what are IGY and IPY and how does this relate to Antarctica?”  IGY stands for the International Geophysical Year, which took place in 1957-58.  IPY stands for the International Polar Year, which is going to take place from 2007-2008.  But that’s not all.  The very first International Polar Year was way back in 1882-83 and the second IPY was in 1932-33.  So what’s this all about?

            These are landmark events in the history of science.  During these periods scientists have collaborated on expeditions to make new discoveries, develop theories and collect data, debate issues in science, broaden public awareness and interest in polar regions, publish their work, and left a legacy for the future of science.  The upcoming International Polar Year will involve many scientists from around the world in exploration and discovery.  Proposals for scientific research have been submitted and are projects underway.  ANDRILL is an important contribution to IPY. 

            Peter Webb has been giving us all a bit of a history lesson this week.  He’s talked with us at our morning meetings, with the ARISE educators, at informal gatherings here at Crary Lab, and tonight he spoke with the McMurdo community during a presentation at the galley (where we eat our meals).  Peter has a unique perspective compared to most people, since he was in Antarctica during International Geophysical Year.  His experiences spanning over 50 years of science research are invaluable as we approach the next IPY in early 2007.

            As a young research scientist from New Zealand, Peter was able to talk with scientists who were part of the Shackleton and Scott expeditions of the early 1900’s.  He also knew the key players in the 1957-58 IGY and his presentation was filled with personal anecdotes about what it was like to be part of a threshold in the history of science.  Peter shared stories of what he called the “polar all-stars,” people who many of Antarctica’s geographical features are named after:  Griffith Taylor (Valley and Glacier), James Clark Ross (Sea and Ice Shelf), Charles S. Wright (Glacier), Sir Douglas Mawson (Cape, Coast, Corridor, Escarpment, Glacier, Peak, and Peninsula), Alfred L. Wegner (Mount and Range), Frank Debenham (Glacier, Islands, and Peak), Raymond E. Preistley (Glacier), and many more.            

            The IGY of 1957-58 had an impact on both polar and global science.  Cooperation between participating nations encouraged exchanges between not only different cultures, but different scientific cultures. It led to the Antarctic Treaty of 1959 and new organizations for operations in Antarctica, and helped promote larger scientific research expeditions on the continent.  Scientists collected a vast amount of data, and solved scientific problems.  Views changed and new theories such as the Plate Tectonic Theory emerged.  A new generation of young scientists, like Peter Webb and Barrie McKelvey stepped forward.  It was an exciting time that set the stage for the future. 

            IPY 2007-2008 is planned to be an internationally coordinated effort that will mark a new era in polar science research taking place in both the North and South Polar Regions.  Many science disciplines will be involved, and the approach is aimed at being interdisciplinary.  International participation will include not only science researchers, but will involve educational outreach and will impact the public.  As with IGY, this international effort will help train the next generation of scientists and leaders.  A major goal of IPY is to bring to the forefront the solid links that polar regions have with global systems.

            Another thing I learned today…when people say “put your name on the map” they are usually just dreaming or joking.  Peter Webb DOES have his name on the map, and thanks to Jess Walker (the GIS map specialist here in McMurdo), I was able to get the map zoomed in on this feature. Enjoy!

 

            The Webb Glacier is just north of Mount Bastion and Gibson Spur.  It flows southeast into the head of Barwick Valley, in Victoria Land.  It was named by the Victoria University of Wellington Antarctic Expedition (VUWAE) of 1958-59 for Peter-Noel Webb.  In 1957-58 Peter and his friend Barrie McKelvey did the first geological exploration of this region (notice the McKelvey Valley also shown on this map).  Both Webb and McKelvey were in Wright Valley as part of the VUWAE of 1958-59.

 

Cheers,

Betty

 

 

    Today I'd like to introduce you to a couple of new things.  First off, I'll be having little contests for students from time to time, and there are small prizes that I will mail to the winner of each contest.  The first person to respond to my question will be sent a small prize such as a patch, key chain, etc.  The answers to the questions can be found in my journal entries.  Here's the first prize shown below:

    When students respond to the question, PLEASE include your full name and address, so I can mail you the prize.  I will send them from McMurdo to anywhere in the world.  Have fun searching for the answer!

QUESTION:  Who are the two Co-Chief Scientists for the ANDRILL McMurdo Ice Shelf Project this season, AND which countries do they represent?

Here's another fun activity for you.  I've designed a word search using words that have to do with ANDRILL.  Good Luck!

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 Words can go up, down, frontward, backward, but NOT diagonally.

 

TOOLS                                                         ICE SHELF

GLACIER                                                     SEDIMENTS

SCIENTISTS                                              CRARY LAB

CORE                                                            NANOFOSSILS

ANTARCTICA                                            FORAM

GEOSCIENCE                                            SEISMIC

MUD                                                              HYDRAULIC

TECTONICS                                               DIAMOND BIT

DIATOM                                                      FRACTURE

RISER                                                           ROSS SEA

 

            Sled dogs are an important part of the history and exploration of Antarctica.  Roald Amundsen used sled dogs to reach the South Pole in 1911.  Robert Scott and Ernest Shackleton both tried using sled dogs in Antarctica, but met with less success than Amundsen.  Hundreds of other expeditions have used sled dogs here throughout the years.  But, many people do not know that sled dogs are no longer allowed in on the continent.  Back in 1984 the Madrid Protocol called for all non-native species, except humans, to be removed from Antarctica.  That was certainly the end of an era. 

Several people involved with ANDRILL have years of Antarctic experience, and have tales to tell.  Today I sat down with Peter Cleary, acting ANDRILL Operations Manager at Scott Base, and we had a chat about his experiences with sled dogs on the ice.

            Peter first came to Antarctica during the 1978-79 season.  He had a strong mountaineering background along with experience in search and rescue operations.  His official role at Scott Base that season was Base Field Assistant and part of that job was being the dog handler for Scott Base.  The Scott Base sled dogs were a breed called West Greenland Huskies.  They were larger dogs, with males weighing about 120 pounds.  Most of them were a mixture of black, white, and light tan, and they had a hackle of fur that sort of stood up on their spine.  Peter told me that they chose dogs with straighter coats of fur because the curly hair would get matted down and then freeze to things and when the dog got up…big chunks of fur would get ripped out.  The coat had longer guard hairs and a thick undercoat...and these layers provided warmth.  I couldn’t believe it when Peter told me that the dogs slept outside, even in the winter.

With strong broad shoulders, these dogs were bred for strength, not necessarily speed.  This was important…for the dogs would carry heavy loads on all sorts of  expeditions.  Peter recalled his first dog trip, which was out to Cape Evans. The sun was still setting at around midnight and it was a really good trip.  Well, that is until some of the dogs got into a fight and he got bitten on the hand while trying to break it up.  He said that fights were a regular occurrence with the dogs, and that selecting dogs to work together was a tricky ordeal.  Often the first mile of a trip was insane, and the handler needed to ride the sled.  After that the handler would often ski to the side of the sled.

 

 

 (A dog driver's view...tails up on the sea ice.  Winter 1979)